Graffiti (7/10)

Most flat surfaces below 3 meters are covered with graffiti in Alicante, even in the “nice” barrios. The only structures avoided by the street artists are the cathederals and the Tram. The taggers probably realize the bad juju (think Spanish inquisition) they would incur if they tagged a holy place. The Tram is either too new or too much effort when free concrete canvas abounds above ground.

Most buildings look like the below picture. Behind the metal blinds could be a sex shop or a Rolex dealer; curb appeal doesn’t seem to matter.

 

Occasionally, the taggers create a coherent “work.”

Some places seem off limits, if the existing art is nice enough. This building, surrounded by heavily graffitied buildings, is untouched. It might be protected by the lady bugs. Notice the really cool third-floor deck and garden.

 

Here’s another building protected by lady bugs.

 

I’m not sure who is doing the graffiti in Alicante. I don’t see (to my untrained tourista eyes) any evidence of thugs hanging around the street corners with spray cans in their hands nor do I notice any consistent symbols or words indicating someone’s territory.

Occasionally, the graffiti is pretty good. Below Humprey Bogart keeps watch along the path to the Castillo de Santa Barbara for Ingrid Bergman.

“I wonder, O, wall, that you have not fallen in ruins from supporting the stupidities of so many scribblers.”

-- graffiti from Pompeii

Lisa Leaves Me Standing at the Train Station (7/9)

On Lisa’s last morning, we packed up her suitcase and then went to the central market to replenish my fruit and veggie supply and search for the elusive souvenir t-shirt for one of Lisa’s girls. Alicante is a tourist town. However, it is easier to find a 6000 E Rolex and 5000 E wedding gown than it is to find a souvenir t-shirt. It is: only bars and kebap restaurants out number the jewelry, dress, and shoes stores in Alicante. Lisa finally found one hanging high in a nic-nac booth at the market. Meanwhile, I was too distracted by the skinned bunny carcases (with eyes) stacked in the meat cases. It takes a strong stomach in the morning to walk past the meat cases on the way to the fruit and veggie booths.

Later we went in search of a rollo kebab for lunch around 1200. Opening and closing times for businesses in Alicante are more guidelines than rules. Our favorite (i.e., cheap and good) for a kebab sandwhich is Kebap El Barrio. Unforunately, the outdoor chairs were missing and the metal garage door was closed. No signage was posted with its hours. Hungry and not knowing when or if it would ever open again, we tried our second favorite spot: Kebap Turco. Based on the sign, it was supposed to be open but wasn’t. Back up the street to Kebap Sultan, an untried place. It was open, luckily for our hungry stomachs. The rollos we tried were some of the best so far. “Sultan” prepared each meticulously with fresh lettuce, cabbage, tomatoes, onions, fallalfel, and salsa blanca or rojo. Then, each rollo was grilled in a “george-foreman” grill. Tasty.

A twenty-minute walk took us to the Alicante train station where Lisa would depart for Madrid and then on to Amsterdam and, finally, Merdian, Idaho. A double, nonfat milky way coffee, with just a little ice, would be waiting for her, as well as the much anticipated AIR CONDITIONING and a comfortable bed.

The train station was pretty straight forward. Each passenger had to have all bags scanned by a metal detector. Good in theory, but once the passengers pass through “security” just a thin rope separates them from the boyfriends, girlfriends, pickpockets, well-wishers, and parents seeing them off. If so inclined, such a person could easily just hand the passenger some banned item (say, a RPG launcher) before they made their way to the train. Obviously, I looked like a terrorist and was eyeing this rope too closely. While waiting for Lisa’s train to depart, two police officers came up and asked for my identification (a well-creased photocopy of my passport was produced) and then asked, I think, what I was doing in the train station. Me not speaking much espanol and them not speaking much English, I tried to explain I was just waiting around for my girlfriend’s train to depart. Isn’t that how it works in the old movies? The remaining person waves as the train slowly departs. They most likely heard, “blixta blumpasnort gootr Lisa blah blah zvega moo kuy.” Two more officers, for a total of four, were now interested in me. I don’t know what they said, but I figured they didn’t like me loitering in the train station.

Back at the apartment it was empty and quiet without Lisa around. I caught up on some email, did some cleaning, organized the five items of food in the cupboard, drank cola light, finished a book, surfed the Internet, and tried to determine the optimal placement and angle for the fan.

Monday in Alicante

Yesterday we arrived in Alicante via autobus. It is about a 5 hour trip via the bus, but don’t quote me on that because I slept most of the way.  We stopped in Toledo and had a tour of the town prior to arriving in Alicante.  Toledo is an ancient city with a very religious history.  The city has grown in recent times, but the ancient city sits atop of a hill surrounded by a river.  Of course there are roads to the city, but we walked across the bridge and entered through the gates to tour the city.  We were able to see inside of the synagogue, but were only able to see the outside of the Cathedrals, as mass was held at the time we were visiting.  The castle was only viewable from the outside as well, but in one of the churches we were able to view a famous portrait by some famous artist, but I can’t remember the name of the portrait or the artist right now (silly, I know, but can google it later).  It was interesting to see the ancient walls around the city and life in the present. 

We arrived in Alicante in the evening and checked out the apartment.  After dumping off all our luggage, we  went exploring around.  We found the Esplanade pretty easily as it was down the street from the apartment.  We were planning to walk to the beach, but ran into a Medieval festival in the Plaza and started wandering around and didn’t stop.  There was everything to imagine there including crepes, jewelry, clothing, tons of jamon (that’s ham for you and me), cheeses, dried fruits, and an olive stand.  I didn’t realize the options for olives were so great-but I guess it is the Mediterranean!   Roger just loved the suckling pig on the spit just roasting away.  While we walked around the Spanish futbol team was playing for the European championship.  People were out in droves at the pubs to watch a teeny tiny TV with the game on.  The team won and the city went crazy with excitement!!  Fireworks, cars and scooters honking, people whooping it up.  I could only imagine it must have been like Boston when the Red Sox won the World Series.  Viva Espana!!

 

Today we had a tour of the University of Alicante, where Roger will teach his Travel Writing class.  The university is very pretty with lots of fountains and plants. It is a very modern University with about 30,000 students.   We will check it out some more when Roger teaches tomorrow.  We met several of the students and they are having a blast here in Spain as the drinking age is only 18!!!  They seem to be having fun and I think it would be a great experience for them.  

After the University, we found a store and purchased a fan (a definite must with no A/C) and found a mercado where we bought some groceries.  Across the street from the apartment is the Central Mercado with fresh everything; seafood, meat, cheese, fruits and vegetables (that we don’t have access to in Boise).  We bought a ton of stuff for about 10 US dollars.  Way cool.  We are going to head to the beach now, so gotta go!!  I will try to figure out how to post pics and get on that later today.  Miss everyone at home!!